Franconian Beer Message Board

A few highlights and lowlights of our second week. Forummers have always sung the praises of Zehendner at Moenchsombach, so it was time to give it a go. No problem with the bus, which dropped us just around the corner. Lovely looking place but no one in sight inside. However, a little shouting brought the lady of the house. Nick had forewarned us that we might be offered the Export, which was the case, but when I asked for the Lagerbier, a cask was immediately brought and tapped. Strangely, I had watched a short video of the same lady doing exactly the same thing on Youtube a few days previously! A most pleasant experience on a nice sunny afternoon, sitting in the little garden drinking an excellent beer. After two seidlas, we decided to head back. As the bus passes Greifenklau, it was a good opportunity to give it a try. Ditto the garden experience and, as a Braunbierbock (think that's right) was on offer, I gave it a try. Not too strong at 6.5% and really malty, a most delicious drink, followed by a seidla of Lagerbier – all in all, a really nice afternoon.

Last Friday, Nick contacted me to say that Roppelt's keller was going to be open, so we headed there, with the help of a lift from Nick and Beccy from Eggolsheim station. I must say that sitting under the trees at Roppelt's, drinking a 'Mass' (it was pronounced with a short 'a' by the guy at the Ausschank) of Keller-bier is a beer experience perhaps unrivalled (IMHO). Hopefully, the weather will be good enough to repeat – thanks both of you.

As J has really recovered well from her hip operations, we decided to try a reasonably lengthy walk on Saturday – Drosendorf to Melkendorf. Absolutely fine, including the long hills down and out of Litzendorf but, sadly, another unannounced Urlaub at Winkler! I have no idea what this place is like inside but the outside is distinctly unpromising. Most village taverns are visually appealing but not this one, all 1960s/70s mass concrete, reminded me of so many buildings in Eastern Europe! Anyway, stopped on the way back for a seidla of Tiefernellen in Litzendorf before hitting Knoblach in Schammelsdorf. Opinions seem divided on their beer but we quite like it, especially the Dunkel, which is a lot less sweet than many others.

Buoyed by the success of Saturday's walk, we set out for Kemmern. Now there are many ways of being thwarted in the search for beer but being halted by railway lines is not usually one of them. Having walked around 9 kms, we reached the railway line halfway between Hallstadt and Kemmern and turned north towards where a crossing was shown on the map. Alas, when we arrived there, the crossing had been torn up, the gates removed and barriers erected to prevent access! Disaster! To reach Wagner would have meant walking all the way back to Hallstadt or on up to Breitengussbach, thus adding several more km's to our journey. Being already a bit worse for wear, we cut our losses and headed home, too tired to even divert to Merkendorf. A most frustrating day and, as Goeller is closed until Wednesday (more Urlaub), we had to make do with bottles of Hummel and Wagner. Life can be cruel sometimes but, hey, we're in Franken, and things could be a whole lot worse.

After the weekend's exertions, it was time to take it a bit easy, so let's take a chance on Mahrs. Regular Forummers will know that I have enjoyed a love/hate relationship with this brewery but I am pleased to say that yesterday's visit was lovely. After a warm-up Seidla of Herrenpils in Keesman, we sauntered across the road to find a reasonable sprinkling of people in the first room and easily found seats. A smiling (!) waitress brought us our first 'U', which was excellent and, look, no reserved signs on the tables! So it continued, the Kackelofen was blazing, the Schafkopf players shouting and a steady hum of conversation backed it all. An occasional visitor ordered food, while families and larger parties were conducted into the back room. Is this now the shape of things or a one-off to entice us back? Whatever, it was a great return and, at the moment, it is a love/love relationship!

So now we enter the second half of our holidays, with a few things to look forward to: the garden festival at the weekend (man cannot live by beer alone), a return to Mahrs, Goeller reopening tomorrow and more walks to Merkendorf (such as this afternoon – Tuesday is a real bad Ruhetag day elsewhere). But certainly more time for old haunts and new, perhaps we will get to do the Ebing – Freudeneck walk this weekend or next but we're open to suggestions, so has anyone got any bright ideas of places that we might not have been? Maybe a nice walk (not much longer than 12 kms round trip) or a handy bus or train visit, where would you be going if you were in our situation?

And one final question – Drei Kronen at Schesslitz is just down the road (6 kms); can anyone confirm their opening times and Ruhetag? According to Fred, opening is from 9 am to 1 pm and from 5 pm but the website gives no information – any ideas?