Franconian Beer Message Board

Bamberg Trip Report

Posted by OldStyleCubFan on 2011-05-23 18:20:42

Sorry for the grammar & spelling...this was a quick writeup. -- I thought I would post a small trip report w/ notes in hopes it helps others. To put things in context…I’ll done a lot of beer vacations, some even in Germany, but this was my first in Bamberg. First off, thanks for the great resources on this site, Fred’s Bamberg Guide, and the help of others I had a nice trip. Also, an apologies to Nick for not being able to meet. I had to move flights around a few times and it just didn’t work. Getting to Bamberg… My flight into Frankfurt was scheduled to arrive around 8am. Due to the big savings, I opted to prebook a train just after 10am to Bamberg. I think the advance purchase was 19Euro vs. 39 at the station. All worked well and I made the connection. A note for anyone traveling international into Frankfurt, you need to bus from the terminal to train station. You honestly need to add about 30 minutes between waiting for the bus to fill, travel time, and time to get to the train. Between customs, baggage claim, bus to station, etc, I wouldn’t book any train closer than 1.5 hours from arrival. I was on a tight connect in Wurzberg, 8 minutes I think. It wasn’t a big deal but did require a change of tracks that required a few sets of stairs. Arrival in Bamberg….Unless you’ve been to Bamberg, on arrival, just take a cab to your hotel. The train station is pretty far out. On paper it might not look bad but after all the traveling its 10 Euros well spent until you get your wits about Bamberg. My first impression outside the train station was this was a little more cosmopolitan that I thought, not a quaint little German town. Lodging - I stayed in an apartment offered by booking.com @ the hotel Weierich per a suggestion here or on BBB, I don’t remember. I can’t decide if I should recommend or discourage this place. At 45Euro a night, the room is a great value with a large bedroom, small kitchen w/ fridge, amazing balcony with a private garden, and most of all….it very very quiet. The biggest downside is ‘the hill’ and its location to the train station. The apartment is on top of the hill off Mittlerer Kaulberg. It’s a really steep climb up the hill with luggage or a full day of drinking. Down isn’t a problem and has you in the center of Bamberg in 5 minutes. It’s also a long ways to the train station. If you plan to do a lot of train travel using this as your Bamberg base, I wouldn’t suggest the unit. If you are fit, maybe a couple, and wanting a quiet time in Bamberg, it’s an amazing value. Free WiFi was nice. Its also real close to the Greifenkla. I think Greifenkla is probably the least touristy brewery in Bamberg and a great place to become a ‘regular’ for a short stay. It stays busy late and great to have close by for a night cap. My take on some of the popular beer stops…in no order Schlenkeria - I think anyone that heads to Bamberg has dreams and big hopes in Schlenkeria. Having had the Marzen a number of times in the States and loving it, I was thinking the beer fresh would be an entirely different and amazing beer. Kind of like PU on cask in the CR vs. bottles in the US. It was great ‘on fass’ , maybe a little crisper and lighter but not mind blowingly different. The building and interior was cool but having been to other old brew houses in the Czech Republic and Germany, I didn’t find it overly unique. I guess I’m getting a little jaded. I was very disappointed the only beer ‘on fass’ was the Marzen. The rest were bottles. I think I walked past Schlenkeria a hundred times but only stopped in once. It wasn’t the highlight that beer travelers dream, at least not for me. Fastenbeer or Urbock on draft might have changed my opinion. Its good people watching outfront as the night grows later and crowd spills into the street. Spezial – When I think of Rauchbier and Bamberg, I’m going to think of Spezial, not Schlenkeria. Over the course of my stay, I had 4 different smoked beers including a Weissbier & an Ungespundet. I think the Marzen was probably my favorite since I ordered it more than once. This is the type of beer and bar I expected in Bamberg, unfortunately it’s a rarity. Lots of local who I found friendly. I had very good service on all stops. If you could only go to one place in Bamberg…..Brauerei Spezial is the place. Fassla – obviously across the street from Spezial held one of my favorite beers on the trip. I really came to love the fresh Pils. I didn’t care for the Weis or lagerbier but love the fresh Pils in the beergarten. I had it a few times in bottles and still enjoyed it but fresh from the cask was something very special. Probably the best German Pils I’ve had. I never went inside, just ordering at the window at the beergarten. I could see how staying at Spezial or Fassla might be the way to go especial given the distance to the train station. Ambräusianum - worth a quick stop I guess. The beers reminded me of a below average US brewpub. I had good service and the food was ok. If Schlenkeria is packed with a bus group, duck in here for a beer and food. If you want something different they brew a lot of schnapps with Carboys all over the back with different things in them. If you are looking to mix it up, maybe hit Ambräusianum for the Schnapps, not the beer. Greifenkla – due to the location of my room, I hit Greifenkla a number of times and really got to know and enjoy it. Lagerbeer served in stoneware mugs outside under the stairs is hard to beat. Good service, lots of locals, good beer. It’s a walk up the hill if you are in central Bamberg so plan to stay and relax. Mahr’s Brau – its worth the walk to Wunderburg. Don’t miss the trip. I had a great lunch in the small garden and a few mugs of ungespundet. Very quiet neighborhood brewery midweek. The servers didn’t speak English but hand signals, bad German, and smiles seemed to work well. Life doesn’t get much better than an order of Schweinshaxe, a mug of the ungespundet, in a quiet garden in perfect weather. I had a great visit. Keesmann – also in Wunderburg and worth the trip. After a long stop at Mahr’s this was a quick stop for a lagerbier. Large garden outback, ordered at the window and relaxed. Nice beers and actually found some more Keesmann in Nuremberg. Maisel - I thought there was another brewery in Wunderberg and made a very long walk. I think its listed in a few guides. I don’t know what it’s up with Maisel but the best I could tell it is closed or has no visitor area. I wasn’t happy I made the trip. I found a large Fassla beer garden next to Maisel that I actually enjoyed. It was a local place and spent some time talking to locals about travel & US football. All was not lost due to the good people at the Fassla bar. Café Abseits – I honestly think this is one of the best bars in the world. It’s the biggest beer menu I’ve ever seen in Germany. They’ve got fresh beers from around Germany, lambics, and lots of Belgium’s. Good service. The ONLY downside it its location. I missed it the first time thinking I was going the wrong way. I’m glad I made another trip back. It’s kind of hard to find via various maps. They have the full run of Weyermans beers. If you can’t make it to the Weyermans store, make a trip here. I think it’s the only place to get them. It was the only stop in Bamberg I could find some fresh Maibock…in May. After about 3 beers, I asked about carryout and it was available. I put together a big list including some Weyermans and Andescher. Well, the waiter brought the list to Gerhard I guess. From the list, Gerhard must have known I was a beer traveler. He brought the beers over himself and apologized for not having 1 in stock. I probably talked beer with Gerhard for 30 minutes. He was very genuine and great to speak with. It sort of made my trip and helped me understand the Bamberg beer scene. He was extremely gracious with the pricing of my carryout beers giving me a very nice discount. I really appreciate the service and the discount that wasn’t needed. Honestly….its probably the best beer bar in Germany and one of the best in the world. It flies really under the radar. I wish I would have stopped here earlier in my trip so I could make multiple stops. I enjoyed Bamberg but it wasn’t this smoked beer Mecca I thought it would be. I’m glad I made the trip. I’ll write full reports on Frankfurt and Nuremberg later if others are interested.

Bamberg Trip Report by Nick B. on 2011-05-24 01:23:27

Bamberg Trip Report by Gerhard Schoolmann on 2011-05-24 02:09:32

Bamberg Trip Report by mike004 on 2011-05-24 03:37:23

Syphons & Stones by Nick B. on 2011-05-24 04:42:08

Syphons & Stones by Fred Waltman on 2011-05-24 09:02:31

Syphons & Stones by Nick B. on 2011-05-24 12:27:59

Syphons & Stones by Gerhard Schoolmann on 2011-05-26 09:59:13

Bamberg Trip Report by JosB on 2011-05-26 13:09:44