Franconian Beer Message Board

At the beginning of our final full week, we managed to make the walk to Tiefernellen, calling on Lohndorf on route. A lot has been said about Holzlein recently, all I will add is that the kellerbier was ok, nothing special. I developed a taste for the Hoenig lager from our days in the Goeldene Loewen in Hallstadt and the Diller Keller outside Doerfleins. By good fortune, on this visit their Pils was on offer vom Fass and it was really nice. Hoenig's hillside garden is quite idyllic on a good day, so an all round good experience.

Nothing ventured, we decided on another longish walk the following day; this time to Stublang and Loffeld. A very pleasant walk down the Lauterbachtal took us to Brauerei Hennemann but, sadly, it was Ruhetag (shown in Fred's guide as Monday, so I don't know whether this is a one off but beware!). We actually missed Brauerei Dinkel and ended up at the Stube (which is the building pictured in Fred's guide). It was a fairly hot day, so the Lager was most welcome. We called at Staffelberf-Brauerei on the way back, whose motto is 'Mit Bergquellwasser gebraut!' Full marks for a picturesque bar in a great setting but no marks for a most ugly brewery building! However, the beer was excellent – we sampled the Pils and Dunkles, both very tasty and I had a Mai-Bock. As it was getting late for our train back from Staffelstein, I decanted most of it into our water bottle (emptied first) and drank it later that evening, finding it extremely more-ish, I wish that I had purchased a bottle or two.

On Wednesday, it was time to finally get to Wagner at Kemmern. This time, there was no chancing the railway crossing but a bus to Hallstadt (the Goldene Loewen was firmly shuttered) and a pleasant, but chilly, walk by the Main. To cold for the garden, so we entered the bar at 3 pm, just as the first Fass was being broached. J. had the bottled Schwarzbier and I had the Ungespundet Lager, which is a most remarkably tasty beer, unusually amber in colour. Wagner has shot right towards the top of my favourites – a wide range of beers, each being of the highest quality, a characterful bar area and lovely garden, and very friendly staff and customers.

Now for the 'Tag des Bieres' – coincidentally or otherwise, April 23 marks the founding of the Reinheitsgebots, St George's Day and Shakespeare's birthday. Naturally, it was the first of these that was being celebrated in Maxplatz. Frank, Robert and Ursl were displaying new and colourful costumes, while on hand were Frank's brother Juergen, Gerhard, Christian from Keesmann, Gregor from Mahrs and Fred - great to see you again Fred, I hope that you enjoyed the remainder of your stay. As per last year, after we had sampled a couple of Seidlas (Schlenkerla and Mahrs), we adjourned, first to the 'Western Bar' at Faessla, and thence to Spezial, where we were joined by Nick. A most convivial afternoon was enjoyed before the imminence of the last bus forced us to take our leave.  Our last sight of Frank and the others was as they commenced their walk to Wunderburg.

On Friday, we headed off to Forchheim but, as the train arrived at Hirschaid, plans were changed and, instead, we disembarked and headed for Kraus. It was glorious afternoon and the garden is quite appealing, but not nearly as much as the U Lager and, for J., the Hirschentrunk! As it was likely to be our final chance of a visit to Mahrs, we left Kraus after a couple of Seidlas.  We arrived in Wunderburg at around 5 pm to find, to my alarm, the Stube devoid of U and everyone in the garden. Gregor explained that it had been decided (not sure by who) to migrate outdoors. Unfortunately, this meant no 'U vom Fass' but the 'tank' version. There is no point in repeating the discussion which has already occurred; more positive to recount that we were joined by a charming couple from Coburg with whom we struck up an instant friendship. As their son was in football training with Memmelsdorf (good luck to Rene in his future footballing career), they kindly gave us a lift home. It is this kind of experience that makes holidays memorable.

Following a Saturday afternoon visit to Wagner Merkensdorf (the two Wagner breweries have become two of our absolute favourites), we headed off on Sunday afternoon for a much-delayed walk to Schesslitz. To my mind, this is a curious town – I don't know the brewing history of Schesslitz but the Hauptstrasse contains a number of buildings that look as if the once could have been breweries but only one which is now a brewery. Then, when you continue up past the beautiful church (the inside is really sumptuous), you have, at least two more former breweries, Barthe-Senger and Schmitt Brauerei (is that another former brewery behind the church?). Schmitt is the 'Marie Celeste' of former breweries – it looks so deserted but glancing through its windows, you can imagine that they have just finished a brew!  But on to the one brewery that remains, Brauerei Drei Kronen or Brauerei Lindner (after the family owners). It's an absolute classic in so many respects – from walking through the entrance doors to the brewery yard to entering the little bar, it is like stepping back in time but so beautifully and respectfully preserved. We were the first in (dead on 5 pm!) and, though the beer took a little time to arrive, it was worth waiting for. For those who haven't been to Drei Kronen, the Fassbier is 'Schäazer Kronabier' and it is really lovely – a beautifully smooth amber-ish liquid, malty with a hint of honey and very low carbonation. So good that three Seidlas quickly disappeared before the need to catch the last bus took us away.

Entering our final week, we decided to revisit a few old favourites, first was Brauerei zur Sonne at Bischberg. I've written about Sonne before and it remains one of my favourites – a real rural Franken delight, just a short city bus ride away from the ZOB.

Our last full day was reserved for a quick blast of Bamberg city pubs: first, of course, Schlenkerla – what to say? Disappointing, yes; worth visiting for a first time, yes, for the experience. Worth revisiting? I suppose that we will go again in a nostalgic sort of way but, why, oh why, change a beer that has been so successful and is noted worldwide among beer enthusiasts? During this visit, we sampled a number of 'Rauchbiers' – from, for example, Spezial, Hummel Merkendorf and Kraus in Hirschaid. From being the standout experience, Schlenkerla Maerzen has now declined to being just another beer. Shame. J. is the real Rauch enthusiast, so next it was on to Spezial. In her view, the Spezial Lager is now not only smokier but more, much more, the tastier beer. I stick to the U, which, given the changes at Mahrs, is now certainly the best U in Bamberg. Finally, across the road to Faessla, which is undergoing a distinct renaissance in my mind. Apart from its excellent beers (J. has really become attached to the Zwergla), it offers a range of drinking experiences that I believe are now unrivalled in Bamberg. Although the inner rooms are quite pleasant, without being outstanding, it is the Schwemme, with its varying possibilities, that is so attractive. Unlike the Schwemme at Schlenkerla, which often becomes so crowded with camera clicking non-drinking visitors to be uncomfortable, the Schwemme at Spezial seems to be place for locals and, thus, has retained the atmosphere of a local pub.

So ended our stay in Drosendorf. The weather was up and down but we had some great times, met some lovely people (including old friends) and went to some super places. Will we go back to Drosendorf? Probably unlikely. The apartment is absolutely fine and I would certainly recommend it. Norbert and Christine are excellent hosts – unobtrusive but readily helpful. It has an excellent bus service (though stopping at 19.15) and is a great base for walking trips to so many breweries. However, I think it's about time that we explored a few more places, particularly to the south and west of Bamberg (J. says again that she is totally 'Bamberged-out'!), so our next visit will probably centre on somewhere like Forchheim (that's if we can find a good fewo).

And the really good news, it's only five weeks until we hit Eschawo again!